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Age: 33
Family: Wife, Carmen McGee, and daughters Zoe and Luca
Place of employment: Executive chef at Joseph Decuis in Roanoke
Years in business: 17
Education/training: I’ve had no formal culinary school training. I held my first job at Little Caesar’s Pizza and never looked back. I’ve been cooking at Joseph Decuis for over nine years, interned at The Fat Duck in England and am currently working with like-minded citizens on the newly created Fort Wayne chapter of Slow Food USA (www.slowfoodusa.org).
What attracted you to this career? Apparently I was just lucky enough to have found my passion at an early age. I’ve always felt comfortable being in the kitchen; I love the atmosphere, the people, the creative energy, the food, the wine – everything that goes with being “on the line.”
How did you learn to cook? I don’t think any one person taught me to cook. I’ve worked with many great chefs, but have learned the most from my fellow cooks and friends. As a chef, you can never learn enough. I’m lucky enough to have a great team of chefs behind me who are thirsty for knowledge, who feed off each other and who teach each other. And let’s not forget, the right cookbook, at the right time, can spark creativity and bring great inspiration.
Proudest moment: Just recently, I had a very proud moment telling all my chefs that we have been invited to cook at the famed James Beard House in New York City next year. This will be a huge event for us; … it’s the chance of a lifetime. And for those who can’t make it to New York for the event, we will be holding a preview dinner at Joseph Decuis, a mirror image of (what) we’ll serve at the James Beard House.
Biggest disaster: When I was a younger cook, I made plenty of rookie mistakes. But this one happened only a couple years ago at The Fat Duck. After spending hours cleaning lamb tongues, I knocked over (and shattered) a coffee cup into the sink holding all the tongues. We spent the next hour inspecting every tongue for shards of white glass. It was equally embarrassing as disastrous.
Favorite meal: My favorite meals are those spent with my friends and family. Otherwise, it’s snacking on great cheese, salami, fruit and crackers with a nice bottle of wine.
Favorite cookbooks: Currently, I have two: “The River Cottage Cookbook” by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall makes me want to buy a house in the country and raise my own pigs and chickens. “Au Pied de Cochon” by Martin Picard is pure gastronomic indulgence.
Must-have kitchen item: A large, sharp chef’s knife and a spoon to taste
Standard items found in your cupboard: Coffee, cookies and Cheerios
How often do you use your culinary skills at home? Not as often as I’d like. Contrary to popular belief, my family does not live on foie gras and Wagyu beef. I work most nights, so I’m more of a breakfast cook at home. I wish there was money in being a “professional home cook.”
Advice for home cooks: If it tastes bland, add salt. If it tastes flat, add lemon. If it tastes bad, throw it out. Taste, taste and taste.
The dish you’re sharing: Shaved Vegetable Salad with Brown Butter Vinaigrette
Why you chose it: I love a great salad and this one is truly unique. Even if you don’t like brussels sprouts, you’re sure to change your mind after having this dish.
1/4 cup dried black currants
1 pound brussels sprouts, washed and trimmed
1 large bulb of fennel, fronds removed for another use
1 medium shallot, peeled
1 bunch of dill, chopped
1/2 cup slivered almonds, toasted
Kosher salt
1/4 cup shaved Parmesan cheese
Extra virgin olive oil
For the vinaigrette:
8 ounces unsalted butter
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup champagne vinegar
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
To make the vinaigrette:
Place the butter in a medium stainless-steel saucepan set over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, set out a mixing bowl filled halfway with cold water. Let the butter melt undisturbed until it starts to take on an amber color, reduce the heat to medium and swirl the pan (slowly!) so you can watch the color change from amber to deep amber with burnt specks at the bottom of the pan. The foam will subside and the butter will take on a pleasant nutty aroma. Remove it from the heat and dip the bottom of the pan in the cold water to arrest the cooking. Set aside to cool slightly. When cooled, whisk in the lemon juice, vinegar, olive oil and the salt. Set aside in a warm spot while you prepare the salad.
To prepare the salad:
Soak the black currants in warm water and set aside while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
Using a mandolin slicer or a very sharp chef’s knife, hold the stem end of the brussels sprout and slice as thin as possible, stopping just short of your fingers. You should have what resembles brussels sprout “slaw”; place in mixing bowl. For the fennel, cut a quarter-inch off the root end and stand it upright on the cutting board; cut into quarters and cut the core out. Slice the fennel on the mandolin (against the natural grain) in the same way you did the brussels sprouts. Slice the shallot in the same manner and add to the bowl with the fennel and sprouts. Drain the currants and add to the salad along with the chopped dill and toasted almonds. Season with salt and add enough vinaigrette to coat the salad well, taste and adjust, adding more vinaigrette if desired. Using tongs, place mounds of the salad on plates and garnish with shaved Parmesan and a little extra virgin olive oil.
