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Uncorked

Uncorked is a column for people who want to love wine, but don't know how. Published every Saturday in print and online, its authors -- Dan and Krista Stockman -- now begrudgingly accept it when people call them wine experts. The weekly column is intended to provide regular people with the information they need to really enjoy wine.

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Published: September 5, 2009 3:00 a.m.

Wineries, fans fit no mold

Dan and Krista Stockman
The Journal Gazette
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You should never judge a book by its cover, but we think it’s just fine to judge a winery by the number of motorcycles parked outside.

Why? Because one of our favorites – Illinois River Winery in Utica, Ill. – usually has at least a few hogs at the curb and a few leather-clad wine tasters at the counter inside.

We’ve told you about this little winery before, but when we stopped in this year we were surprised to find its tiny storefront had doubled in size. Even better, while it was already family-friendly with a basket of toys to amuse the kids while their parents engage in the endlessly boring hobby of wine tasting, the winery now had an entire sitting area the kids could hang out in. Plus, there was free popcorn; as far as our daughter Felicity was concerned, she didn’t care whether we ever left as long as the popcorn supply held out.

But the great thing about Illinois River Winery (www.illinoisriverwinery.com; 815-667-4012) is that the staff understands that making great wine and catering to wine beginners are not mutually exclusive.

We don’t know why, but Utica is a big stop for bikers in the summer – or at least Memorial Day weekend when we’ve been there. And when the bikers aren’t busy checking out the pottery shop or the antiques in Utica’s quaint downtown, they’re tasting wine at Illinois River.

The winery makes a lot of wines that appeal to wine beginners, but it also makes some really nice dry wines. While we’re big dry-red drinkers, we like some of Illinois River’s sweeter wines, too, because they are not overly sweet, and they’re not simple. One of our favorites is a Riesling called Born to Ride/Forced to Work. The label depicts a motorcycle and the back reads, “Celebrating an American Icon.”

When we visited this year, the place, despite doubling in size, was full of people. And although the people behind the counter were swamped, they were just as friendly and enthusiastic as ever and just as helpful whether tasters wanted only big, dry reds or were brand new to wine.

We also like visiting Illinois River because it challenges our assumptions. Our society makes it far too easy to stereotype people and to let you think you know someone’s tastes based on how they look. That’s what makes discussing the merits of a really nice cabernet sauvignon with someone in riding chaps and a bandanna so great – it reminds us that you can’t figure out what kind of wine drinker someone is by outward appearances.

Just in case that message wasn’t pounded home enough this summer, we visited Buck Creek Winery just southeast of Indianapolis on our way to Atlanta.

It would be easy to make assumptions about the winery based on the large deer head on its labels and the pole barn that houses the winery, but those assumptions would be wrong.

For one thing, inside the pole barn is an elegant tasting room. And – another great surprise – the staff is kid-friendly, putting up with their constant begging for cheese and crackers and getting them books and toys. That kind of extra effort is deeply appreciated by parents, at least these parents.

Outside the winery was what may be the world’s calmest, sweetest Dalmatian, named Lucy, who was just as patient with our kids as the tasting room staff.

And the wine? Yummy.

Buck Creek (www.buckcreekwinery.com; 317-862-WINE) makes a lot of wines. Its syrah was delicious, as were many of its dry reds, and the whites were complex and interesting. Truly there is something for everyone at the winery, from the popular Ally Cat, a sweet red that won a gold medal at the Newburgh Wine & Arts Festival and a silver at Indy International Wine Competition this year, to Der Champion, a Riesling made to celebrate the Indianapolis Colts. That wine, too, has won awards, including a gold medal at the Kentucky Derby Festival and silver at Indy International this year.

The winery has been open since 2006, but Jeff and Kelly Durm established their vineyard in 1991. That gave them many years to practice winemaking before opening their own winery. In fact, according to the winery’s Web site, in 1996, Jeff entered 10 wines in the Indy International and walked away with 10 medals – one gold, seven silver and two bronze. Pretty good for an amateur. Another decade later, and he’s no amateur. If you’re traveling in the area, stop by. We’re sure you won’t walk out empty-handed.

Cheers!

Dan and Krista Stockman are wine lovers and write a wine column every Saturday for The Journal Gazette. Got a question or comment about wine? E-mail uncorked@jg.net; or write to Uncorked, c/o The Journal Gazette, 600 W. Main St., Fort Wayne, IN 46802. To discuss this entry of Uncorked or other wine topics, go to the Uncorked topic of “The Board” at www.journalgazette.net.