NEW YORK – You swear youre getting in shape in 2010. Your body. Your soul. Your skin?
A mask could jump-start a healthy routine, experts say, giving a boost beyond daily washing and moisturizing (both of which you should already be doing).
The biggest investment in a mask isnt necessarily monetary – although some can be quite pricey. Its really about taking the time to research the right one for your skin type and then executing it properly.
Many people do masks only when they treat themselves to a spa facial because theres someone else selecting the product, and spa-goers are somewhat of a captive audience, says Peter Thomas Roth, founder and formulator of his eponymous skin-care line.
But, he adds, masks are easy enough to do at home with plenty of variety in the market and most dont take more than a few minutes. Put it on before you brush your teeth, turn on the shower and by the time the water is warm, you can wash it off. You dont have to just sit there and watch the bubbles on your face.
A bubbly mask, Roth says, is probably one that is refreshing to the skin and aims to tighten pores.
If youre looking to exfoliate, which should help with later steps to nourish skin, Manhattan dermatologist Dr. Amy Wechsler says the right mask will help remove the top, dead layer of cells and promote cell turnover, resulting in a smoother appearance. But she warns there is a risk that exfoliating masks can be drying, so she encourages one made of otherwise gentle ingredients, such as yogurt or honey.
For intense moisturizing, Paul Tchinnis, director of research and development at The Max Huber Research Labs used for La Mer products, recommends a product with sea algae, which has been shown to provide both immediate and longer-term benefits.
By design, masks are more intensive treatments for occasional use and not part of a daily skin-care routine. Sometimes delivery is achieved through a thick-texture cream, serum or a moist clay-based or claylike product that will then dry on the skin. Some companies, including SK-II and La Mer, are experimenting with physical masks that transfer active ingredients from a saturated cotton mask to the face, boosting coverage and intensity.
Masks prep you in a different way than a regular cream, Roth says. You cant leave on a mask: Its doing something but you dont want to do it for too long. If its working, eventually it will be too harsh.
You want to read the directions for mask removal, too: Some are wipe-off, some wash off and some peel off.
Theres no better time than winter to try a treatment because skin – facial skin, in particular – takes a battering in the windier, drier atmosphere, Tchinnis says.
Some additional guidance:
A sulfur or clay mask tends to be cooling, which can calm inflamed or acne-prone skin, and is supposed to draw out dirt, oil and impurities, Roth says.
A powdered version of the precious stone tourmaline creates tiny energy fields against the skin, opening pores and encouraging a process of fermentation that encourages cells to repair themselves, Tchinnis says.
Tourmaline works in concert with other ingredients because it makes the skin more receptive and enhances absorption, he says.
Shea butter is a go-to ingredient for a rich, nourishing mask, says Cerina Silvestro, esthetician at La Prairie at The Ritz-Carlton Spa in New York. It replenishes lost moisture and reinforces the skin barrier to keep existing moisture in, she says.
Silicones, avocado oil, soybean oil and oat-kernel have similar effects.
If you have oily skin, steer clear of those thicker textures, Roth says. There are oil-free options, including still-needed moisturizing ones.
A cucumber-based mask is user-friendly for almost everyone because its so soothing, helping with redness caused by both dryness and acne.
Masks with active fruit enzymes, such as pumpkin, essentially eat away at dead skin cells like Pac-Man, Roth says.
Salicylic acid, which comes from tree bark, aids in resurfacing, reducing the appearance of lines, La Prairie says.