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Summer skin routine
1. Cleanse in the a.m. and p.m. If your face is greasy in the summer (even if it’s normally considered dry), try a less hydrating cleanser than you normally use – such as a bar soap – which will help control the extra sebum your skin is producing.
2. Apply your antioxidants. The sun’s rays can induce damaging free radicals, resulting in fine lines, sagging and brown spots. “Using a serum with antioxidants under your moisturizer, preferably one with SPF, can help absorb some of these free radicals,” says David E. Bank, a dermatologist and the director of the Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic & Laser Surgery, in Mount Kisco, N.Y. Some of the most effective antioxidants include vitamin C, Idebenone and green tea. Try Prevage Clarity Targeted Skin Tone Corrector with Idebenone ($125, ElizabethArden.com).
3. Moisturize. “Don’t stop using a face moisturizer during the summer, even if your skin is oily,” says Amy Wechsler, a dermatologist in New York City. The hydrating ingredients (including water) in face creams help keep skin cells functioning properly. But if your skin feels slick, switch to an oil-free formula or moisturize only after cleansing at night.
4. Use a lot of sunscreen. Unless your moisturizer has broad-spectrum protection of at least SPF 15, you’ll have to wear a separate sunscreen on top. Apply it often (every couple of hours), and reapply after sweating or swimming, says David J. Leffell, a professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine. A shot glass–size amount (1 ounce) should cover your whole body; a tablespoon will protect your face and neck.
Decode a sunscreen label
Active ingredients. These are what absorb and/or reflect rays, as opposed to the ingredients that soothe skin or enhance the texture of the product.
Avobenzone. A common active-chemical ingredient, it penetrates the skin’s surface and helps absorb harmful UVA rays. If avobenzone is on the label, also look for ingredients such as octocrylene and octisalate, which stabilize avobenzone so that it remains effective longer. Some sunscreens contain Helioplex, a fancy name for a technology that stabilizes avobenzone.
Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These “actives” are physical compounds. Rather than absorbing rays, they reflect them away from the skin. They’re a good choice for those with sensitive skin.
SPF. This number refers to the relative amount of protection you’re getting from UVB rays – not how much longer you can stay in the sun than you could without protection. To put it in perspective: An SPF 15 product protects skin from about 93 percent of UVB rays; an SPF 45, about 97 percent. There is no sunscreen that blocks 100 percent.
Broad-spectrum. This term means the product protects against both types of rays: UVB and UVA. UVB rays burn skin, and UVA rays can cause age-related damage. Both kinds have been linked to skin cancer.
Water-resistant. According to the Food and Drug Administration, this means the product maintains its SPF protection for at least 40 minutes of swimming or sweating. (Even if the label says so, experts maintain no sunscreen is 100 percent waterproof.) “Very water-resistant” or “very sweat-resistant” products protect for at least 80 minutes.
PA rating. This Japanese rating system (which is growing in popularity in the United States) measures UVA protection on a scale of one to three pluses, but it isn’t yet FDA-approved. Since there’s no easy way to know how much UVA protection you’re getting, always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
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Simple Solutions

Beat the heat

High temperatures, rays can wreck skin, so stock up on fixes – chiefly sunscreen

Burning rays and high temperatures? Don’t sweat it. Try these smart solutions for the most common summer skin afflictions.

The issue: Breakouts

The solution: Keep those pores clear. “Avoid oil-based moisturizers and makeup,” which could potentially clog pores, says David E. Bank, a dermatologist and the director of the Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic & Laser Surgery, in Mount Kisco, N.Y. He also says you should choose oil-free lotions and a powdered mineral foundation instead. Exfoliate three to four times a week with a mild scrub or a washcloth, and after exercising (or on especially sweaty days), use a glycolic face wash, such as Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 3% Facial Wash ($32, PeterThomasRoth.com), to keep skin clean.

The issue: Shine

The solution: Add a salicylic acid toner to your morning routine, right after you cleanse. “It minimizes shine by removing the dead, sticky cells from the top of skin that hold on to oil,” says Amy Wechsler, a dermatologist in New York City. To keep oil under control without stripping skin, look for a toner that contains either 0.5 percent salicylic acid or salicylic acid that is naturally derived. Try Burt’s Bees Natural Acne Solutions Clarifying Toner ($10 at drugstores); it has salicylic acid from willow bark. Midday, sop up excess shine with a powder-coated blotting paper (just dab it over makeup).

The issue: A painful sunburn

The solution: The best defense is a good offense – use your sunscreen! But if you wind up red despite diligent application, relieve the discomfort by taking an over-the-counter non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug, such as ibuprofen. You can also soothe the burn with a cool milk soak. Dilute a bowl of whole milk with some cold water, soak a washcloth in it, and apply for 10 minutes at a time. “The fat in the milk has anti-inflammatory properties,” Wechsler says. Applying pure aloe vera (from the plant or in a commercial gel) may also ease pain. Beyond that, treat your skin gently: Stop exposing it to the sun; apply multiple coats of a fragrance-free moisturizer (which won’t sting) daily; and when you start to peel, don’t pick. Expect your skin to heal in about 10 days.

The issue: Brown spots

The solution: Again, sunscreen is key as a preventive measure. If brown spots start to appear, the best way to fight them is to increase cell turnover by exfoliating regularly with a gentle scrub that contains alpha or beta hydroxy acids. Creams that contain soy, like Aveeno Positively Radiant Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 ($17, Drugstore.com), may also help lighten existing spots. If you’re still seeing them after using over-the-counter products, consider talking to your dermatologist about a prescription-strength preparation with a mix of hydroquinone and a vitamin A derivative, like tretinoin, that encourages exfoliation.

The issue: Hard-to-protect parts

The solution: No matter how careful you are, it’s difficult to keep some spots sufficiently doused with sunscreen. For your scalp, covering up with a hat is your best bet. Look for one with a wide brim to shield not just your scalp but also the tops of your ears, which are a common skin-cancer site, says Joel L. Cohen, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Colorado. While it isn’t a substitute for sunscreen, sun-protective clothing can help shield your shoulders, back and chest on long days spent outdoors. Look for a UPF rating on the tag, which measures how much UVA and UVB rays penetrate a fabric and reach the skin. (It’s more convenient than mummifying yourself in towels.)

The issue: Heat rash

The solution: To quickly calm those little pink bumps that pop up mostly on the chest, the neck, the back or the abdomen, stand in front of an air conditioner or a fan. Cornstarch powder or a cool-water soak can also help alleviate the redness.

The issue: Saggy skin

The solution: For skin that has seen its share of the sun or that starts to look weathered halfway through summer, topical retinoids, such as prescription Retin A, are the best treatment, Cohen says. “Used regularly, they help stimulate collagen production,” he says, “which can degrade from free-radical damage induced by UV exposure.” And though topical retinoids can make skin more susceptible to burning, Cohen says that if you use them at night and wear sunscreen during the day, you shouldn’t have a problem. Over-the-counter-strength retinol products, such as RoC Multi-Correxion Skin-Renewing Serum ($28 at drugstores), may be less irritating than the prescription versions. If your skin is very sensitive or dry and you can’t tolerate retinoids or retinol, try a moisturizer that lists peptides as a primary ingredient, such as Olay Regenerist UV Defense Regenerating Lotion SPF 50 ($30 at drugstores) or L’Oréal Paris Youth Code SPF 30 Day Lotion ($25 at drugstores). These amino acids may soften fine lines without irritation. Newer to the scene are products with growth factors (one to try: Neocutis Bio-Gel Bio-restorative Hydrogel, $110, LovelySkin.com). These substances, sometimes listed as “growth peptides” on the label, “can trick your skin into acting like younger cells,” Bank says, and stimulate new collagen growth.

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