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Food

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Get cracking
Fresh coconuts are usually sold minus their husks in the produce section. Cracking through the shell to get to the meat and milk inside can be daunting. Here’s one way:
There are three dark “eyes” at one end of the coconut, and one is soft. Poke each with a screwdriver, sharp, thin knife or even an instant-read thermometer. Your utensil will easily go through the soft eye. Move it around to widen the hole. Now you can shake the coconut and collect the watery milk in a glass. It should taste clean with a subtle coconut flavor. If it tastes unpleasant, the coconut might be old. The meat will still be good, but discard water.
If you prefer not to smash your coconut on the pavement, try placing it, with the hole punched through the eye, on the middle rack of a preheated 400-degree oven for about 15 minutes. This will crack the outer shell. Use a hammer and break off pieces. Wrap the coconut in a clean kitchen cloth to keep shards from flying. The shell will come away from the meat in some of the pieces. For pieces where that doesn’t happen, use a screwdriver to pry away meat.
You can peel the thin, brown skin from the meat with a vegetable peeler. It is edible, though, and I don’t bother.
Scripps Howard News Service photos
Coconut Shrimp can be made ahead and frozen, then paired with a mango-rum sauce.

Shell game

After you get inside a coconut, the possibilities are endless

Find the recipe for Fresh Coconut Muffins on Page 2D.

I have a long history with the coconut, starting when I was a child on a Navy base in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

In our yard, we had a mile-high papaya tree, a wild and fruitful mango and several coconut palms, plus there were more elsewhere in the neighborhood. We loved it when the big bombs fell to the ground; we were never adept at scaling the spindly, sloping trees to pluck the fruit as we’d seen the locals do. Armed with screwdrivers to get us started, my buddies and I would hack into the tough, fibrous husk to get to the nut inside. Then we smashed the hard shells in the street, not caring one whit about the coconut water inside or that the shards could easily pierce our bare feet.

We’d sit on the curb, pick out the meat and chomp away. An island delight for sure, but nothing like the sweetened flakes we are accustomed to today.

Since then, I’ve sipped coconut water purchased from roadside stands in India and more recently at the base of the lighthouse in Aruba. In both places, a machete replaced our screwdrivers, and the top of the coconut, green husk and all, expertly hacked and colorful straw plunged inside. I paid $1. At my grocery store, I see coconut water marketed as miracle juice, about $3 for 12 ounces.

In the past couple of years, I’ve enjoyed many piña coladas on the decks of cruise ships and even made a few at home. When I eat Thai, I always order a curry laced with coconut. I’ve mastered the art of macaroons (I like mine dipped in chocolate) and toasting sweetened coconut flakes without burning them.

Coconut Shrimp with Mango-Rum Dipping Sauce

Shrimp should be served soon after making, but they do freeze well if you want to prepare them ahead. After frying, drain on paper towels and cool completely. Freeze in a single layer on baking sheet, then place in a zip-close storage bag, removing as much air as possible. They will keep for a couple of months in the freezer. To reheat, place frozen shrimp on baking sheet in a single layer and bake in a 350-degree oven for about 15 minutes.

1 1/2 cups shredded sweetened coconut

1 1/2 cups panko breadcrumbs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3 large eggs, beaten

2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined with tails left on

Vegetable or peanut oil, for frying

For the dipping sauce:

1/2 cup mango preserves (or orange marmalade)

1 to 2 tablespoons dark rum

In a large bowl, combine coconut and breadcrumbs and season with salt and pepper. Place flour, eggs and breadcrumb mixture into 3 bowls. Dredge the shrimp in flour and shake off excess. Next, dip the shrimp thoroughly in the egg and rub against the side of the bowl to lightly remove excess. Finally, coat the shrimp thoroughly with the breadcrumb mixture. Lay out the shrimp so they do not touch on a parchment-lined baking sheet or platter until ready to fry. In a large Dutch oven or deep-fryer, heat several inches of oil to 350 degrees. Fry the shrimp in batches until golden brown and cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes per batch. Be careful not to overcrowd shrimp in the oil while frying. Drain on paper towels.

For the dipping sauce: Heat the mango preserves in a small saucepan over low heat. Thin with rum as desired.

Serves 6 as appetizer; 4 as main course.

– Adapted from Ina Garten, Food Network

Fresh Coconut Muffins with Crunchy Streusel

There’s some work involved here with extracting the meat from a fresh coconut. You can substitute unsweetened coconut, or even sweetened if you want extra sugar. Coconut oil comes as a solid. To liquefy, heat on low power in microwave in 15-second intervals.

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup sugar

3 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 egg

1 1/4 cups coconut milk

1/3 cup coconut oil (liquefied)

1 teaspoon coconut extract

1 cup grated fresh coconut

For the topping:

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup grated fresh coconut

1 tablespoon solid coconut oil

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. In another bowl, combine the egg, coconut milk, coconut oil and extract; mix well. Stir into dry ingredients just until combined. Stir in coconut. Fill greased or paper-lined muffin cups two-thirds full.

Combine the topping ingredients; sprinkle over batter. Bake at 400 degrees for 20 to 22 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Cool for 5 minutes before removing from pan to a wire rack.

Makes 9 to 10 muffins, depending on size.

– Adapted from AllRecipes.com

Coconut Poke Cake

You can use Cool Whip or another brand of topping, but fresh whipping cream adds more flavor, plus it allows you to up the coconut quotient with extract.

1 (18.25-ounce) package white-cake mix

1 (14-ounce) can cream of coconut

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 (8-ounce) package flaked coconut, toasted

2 cups heavy whipping cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon coconut extract

2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

Prepare and bake white-cake mix according to package directions for a 9- by 13-inch pan. Remove cake from oven. While still hot, using a large-tined utility fork or even a chopstick, poke holes all over the top of the cake.

Mix cream of coconut and sweetened condensed milk together. Pour over the top of the still-hot cake. Cool completely.

While cake is cooling, toast coconut. Place coconut in a dry skillet over medium heat. Stir occasionally and watch closely. Once it starts to brown, it will burn quickly because of the oil. Remove from pan immediately or the residual heat will continue to cook (and burn) coconut. Let cool completely.

Whip the cream with an electric beater until soft peaks form. This may take 5 minutes. Add flavorings and confectioners’ sugar, continue until stiff peaks form. Do not overbeat or cream will become grainy.

Once cake has cooled, spread whipped topping evenly over the top, then sprinkle with toasted coconut. Refrigerate immediately.

Note: This cake gets better after refrigeration. The topping will deflate slightly, but the coconut flavors get more intense. In our testing, it was still delicious two full days after it was made.

Serves about 12.

– Adapted from AllRecipes.com

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