Is that art? is the eternal question usually posed in gallery spaces and art museums. But for spring, the same could be asked about some of the original and complex fashion shown on the runways of New York, Paris and Milan.
Marc Jacobs striped suits and evening dresses swirled around models bodies in geometric precision, recalling the 1960s op art of Victor Vasarely. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler patched together pieces of satin fabric, multihued reptile skins and silver grommets with photos from the Internet, in a self-described homage to Gerhard Richters painterly collages.
Which brings us back to a twist on the age-old query: Can a piece of clothing be art, and can a designer be an artist? Maybe, says Harold Koda, curator in charge of the Costume Institute at New Yorks Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Most designers are reluctant to say theyre artists, even though every creative person goes through the same process to express an idea, Koda said in a recent interview. The problem, he contends, is an economic one.
Because our culture continues to believe in the romantic notion of artists working for arts sake, Koda says, designers, whose careers are often dedicated to the dollar, can be dismissed as unworthy of the artist mantle.
But every now and then comes a designer or a piece within a collection that goes beyond the notion of what will sell.
They will do something that crystallizes the zeitgeist, something thats technically innovative and aesthetically provocative, Koda said.
Nancy Pearlstein, owner of the Washington boutique Relish, will stock Jacobs latest collection.
I dont know yet how it will be received, but its a new dimension in suits and dresses. I cant say whether its art or not, but if art is something that you relate to and are instinctively drawn to, then hes touched on something right.
Here are spring shopping suggestions for those who believe that art can be found on city streets as well as in the National Gallery.
From op art school
Victor Vasarely painted Bora III, an oil on canvas, in 1964. He was a leader in developing the geometric abstract, also known as optical art.
Op artists zoomed in on color and line. A chevron-pattern cotton sweater from New Zealand-based designer Karen Walker goes for a similar artistic effect, seducing us with its precise navy stripes. Pair this fresh take on nautical style with your go-to white jeans or cropped ones worn with ankle-tied espadrilles. Seafellow sweater, $88 at www.anthropologie.com.
This front-pocket totes soothing geometric design in minimalist black and white will give you the illusion – if not the reality – of imposing order on your overscheduled days. Shopper, $129 at www.zara.com.
From collage school
Gerhard Richter painted Stuhl (chair) in 1985. His primary focus in the late 70s and early 80s was abstract art.
If collage is all about layering and texture and creating cohesion out of visual differences, then this set of sparkly, stone-encrusted, candy-colored bracelets qualifies as a new art form. Set, $29 at www.accessorize.com.